Monday, September 19, 2016

Roasted Scallops with Pumpkin - Page 180

We wanted the Squash Risotto as a side to this (pumpkins and squash let you pretend it's fall and will get cool soon), and that made things complicated.  You can see the graph paper timeline on instagram (OxandBrock).  Things didn't go quite as planned (the pumpkins required a hacksaw to open - good thing I have a food grade hacksaw blade* - doesn't everybody?) and that slowed things down.  The timeline work did help us adjust and recover.  There are 5 components to this dish, and the risotto isn't exactly simple either.  That said, properly organised, this recipe is relatively straightforward and the recipe guides you pretty well.

We couldn't get dry packed scallops in time, and also didn't get U-10's.  This meant we had to sear in 2 batches.  I don't recommend this as the second batch didn't sear as well and ended up a little grey.  They also don't taste as amazing as really good scallops, but they were still good.

Everything else is straightforward, but this recipe is the poster child for planning, mise en place, and knowing what burner you will be using when.  Know where you are going to put the various pans as they finish.  Warmed plates and bowls can be helpful, or a large cutting board or towel that is out of the way, but easy to get to.  Have the tools you'll need out and easy to get to.  Extra hands help, as long as they know what to do when.

The Brussels sprout leaves were awesome, and this is from someone who hates those nasty things.

*Seriously...pliers, drill bits and other things as well.  The saw blade requires finding an unpainted one, or removing the paint from one.  After that it's just a matter of separating it from your regular tools, keeping it clean and not letting it rust.

Advice: Get the dry-packed scallops.  If you don't get dry-packed, leaving them open on a cooling rack in the freezer for a couple hours will help them sear without adversely affecting their moisture when cooked.  Get a food grade hacksaw blade.  Making more sauce will make it easier to froth, and a tall thin pan helps, but the sauce tastes fine unfrothed.  Roast a second pumpkin for pie.

What to do if you don't have an immersion circulator or vacuum sealer:  Get a well insulated beer cooler, smaller the better.  Warm it with tap water at the hottest setting and then fill halfway with your hottest tapwater.  Using a probe thermometer (ideally one with a wire so you can leave it in with the cooler shut) adjust the temperature by adding boiling water until you hit 125F.  If cooler is not 2/3 full, add hot or boiling water as needed to raise the level while maintaining the temperature.  Have boiling water available to add to the cooler to maintain temperature.  Put the scallops with the butter (melt it first) in a gallon ziploc bag and close the bag almost all the way by closing it on your finger.  Submerge the bag slowly into the water, letting the air out through the finger hole while being careful not to let any water in.  When the bag is almost fully submerged, quickly zip it shut the rest of the way and drop it in the water.  Close the lid, cover with a towel and wait 10 minutes.  The water temp should drift to 122F when you add the scallops, and you can adjust with boiling water if it cools too fast.  Remove the bag and proceed with searing per the recipe.

Squash Seed Risotto - Page 57

It's been a while since we cooked, mainly because of me spending my summers North in Vermont.  Also because the remaining recipes are getting a bit complicated and the ingredients a bit more fun.  Kari and I are going to Denver for a week and when we get back, Ox and I are going to do a bit of preparation for the future, rather than deciding on a recipe the day we plan on cooking it.

The good thing about going North, however, is that we get to bring back some Hill Farmstead Arthur - a great Farmhouse Saison, with a perfect tartness to compliment the risotto and the Roasted Scallops we made to accompany them.

Coordinating these recipes required a bit of graph paper, a series of timelines, and some mental gyrations - most of which failed.  The result was awesome, but our timing did not go as planned.

The Farro Risotto we made from Heritage was amazing, so we had high hopes for this recipe, though the idea of using rice grits seemed a bit strange - In Brock We Trust.  The squash seed addition at the end was also unexpected, but kinda made sense texturally.  We couldn't figure out why we were rubbing the squash with oil and salt, since you wouldn't be using the peels - turned out you DO use the outsides, and this means you need to salt them liberally.  The sofrito step of heating thinly sliced garlic and shallots in butter and oil until they practically dissolve is going to become a staple technique in our kitchen.

This came together as a classic risotto, with stock additions and stirring, though it is quite a bit thicker, so you couldn't stop stirring or you would get a risottoplosion.  My microwave can attest to this, as it is covered in risotto splashes.  We played around with this and made a few discoveries.  Discussed in the advice.  One was that if you don't salt the squash generously enough, you will have an under-salted risotto, but this was an easy fix.

Advice:  Season the squash liberally.  If you don't have classic rice grits, you can briefly pulse good rice in a food processor to break it up a bit - go for the consistency of steel cut oats, and sift most of the dust away.  Start the risotto off on Medium Low and raise or lower as necessary to avoid risottoplosion.  Don't be afraid to use the skins and seeds of the squash - they are what makes the dish.  You can add salt to taste at the end if there's not enough.

On a separate note, we made it to McCrady's Tavern this Saturday and they hit it out of the park!  The new design is beautiful and works great.  The menu is delicious and accessible, and the beer list well thought out.  Thanks to the chef for sending out the OXtail and BROCKolli - it was delicious!